Yes that is true. The G25 is very well built, the slight 'twisting torque' introduced by the pedal offset isn't enough to cause a noticable issue. I was actually quite surprised how well the G25 is put together. I'm considering a 20kg loadcell update and the unit would cope with that just fine; I even stood on it with my (admittedly low) weight and it didn't mind!

Good point! Indeed, I can't heel & toe with the default layout at all. I also hope the PRESS product (loadcell integrated into the G25 unit) works out well, then finally its a proper set

It sure isn't an easy topic and data is sparse on this subject! I did recently found this PDF which has measured and simulated tire temperature during the course of a lap. I assume those are outer surface temperatures but I'm not sure.

http://www.ipg.de/fileadmin/do ... RaceCM_racetec_200611.pdf

pages 13 and 16 have some info..

I do think LFS isn't quite right here, but if that means the model is wrong or the parameters going into it are wrong, hard to say!

Hey guys,

I'm going to sell a simple product for Logitech G25 users. Basically its a set of clever(ish) spacers allowing you to change the pedal layout. You can make heel & toe easier by putting the brake pedal in front of the gas, and move them closer together.

There are many options, each pedal can move 'up' (bigger feet), left, right, and towards you depending on your preferences. Its easy to install and adds realism and / or comfort to your G25 pedals.

At € 24,95 (plus shipping) I'd say its a decent deal for some added realism in your favorite racing sims! Here is the product link with more info and some pictures: http://www.h-engineering.nl/h_g25pad.htm

Looking forward to some orders!

Niels

PS: Victor allowed this gratious plugging post!

I don't really know.. there are a few more models in development but to be honest their graphical qualities aren't that high, and I don't know what the plans are. I jumped in because vehicles with roughly a 1 horsepower per kg figure got to be interesting..

I have the fortune to design my own cars. Setting the FFB for rFactor really isn't more than changing one number for each car, taking literally 1 minute to do. I really don't see what the fuss is about. If a mod doesn't work well with realfeel, its not worth playing. If it works with realfeel, there is only the maximum force to set, ideally with no damping or smoothing. I dislike Linux too

Still it seems many users have a sort of common problem with rFactor, even with the better mods. It'll be interesting to see if anything changes with rFactor 2..

At the end of the day I don't believe FFB settings are the solution. RealFeel does a good job, its just a case of getting used to things a bit more and making sure you don't overdrive so much, its more sensitive than LFS where overdriving is easier to get away with.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpCoChit2ak HistorX will be back this year with improved everything. I might make some more LFSers buy rFactor.. You can only imagine what will happen with rFactor 2.0, lets hope LFS gets some more improvements before that happens and the world will be a happier place.

Interesting. People did it and will keep doing it in sims. In real life there might be problems. First, theoretically it will work. However, in oversteer, the forces on the steering wheel would make it 'auto opposite lock'. Often you have to react pretty fast and you wouldn't believe how hard it physically is to turn a real non power assisted wheel very fast against its will.

Also, lots of simmers tend to either use too little steering lock on their wheels, or too much in the car setup. With our FFB being much weaker than real life in most cars, we can almost instantly apply full lock in less time and with less effort than real life.

One thing is for sure, if you do this too slowly in real life, you might well make the oversteer worse. Also you'd be physically exhausted if you had to do it a few times. Applying opposite lock is far more natural, physically easier, less hard on the front tires, and likely to cost less time..

Its a silly exploit showing just how people don't care about realism even in iRacing; they're just finding ways to go fast, just like it has always been.. If you have a grain of racing talent and want simracing instead of gaming, you'd avoid doing this pretty much!

gambling has more random physics than any TOCA game.. I steer clear of them! well clear!

So they build a loadcell based brake, yet still get loads of travel on the pedal, at 19:35 and onward it seems like it barely requires any force to press (certainly not 50+lbs).. They look nice and probably do offer good value though..

Got to love the marketing department for the wheel though; they got rid of the bigger powersupply and motor cooling fan by increasing gearing! Great! A slower turning and more noisy wheel.. umm wait.. thats a bad thing!

Simplicity is its brilliance. The 'general' is a brilliantly challenging car on some of the default tracks! Quality above Quantity!

For the next few years I don't expect quad core will improve race sims. Also, windows stuff will not be faster with quad vs dual core, only very marginal, unless you're heavy into the few programs that effectively use multicores...

For the far future quad core might be an idea, but by then the 6600 will be slow. I'd concentrate on the next couple of years and if you do the regular web/music/dvd/simracing, 2 cores is plenty, and more ghz per core is the way to go.

The downside, going by the video, is you get wobbly oval wheels.. Damn aspect ratio.. :P

Well you're certainly not alone, I've always wanted sims to include a ''FFB Clipping'' thing, much like a FPS counter, so you could see when the occuring FFB in the sim exceeds the maximum value the game can send to the wheel.. I bet half or more of the simracers run their FF too high.

To have more fidelity you sort of want the maximum actually occuring force feedback (say a hard high speed corner) to correspond with 100% FF being sent to the wheel.

With high FF strength in game, i.e. your 200%, any sort of bump in the road, or even slight wheel turning or slip angle will make the sim send 100% FF to the wheel.. Above that, the force in the sim will change, but it can't send more than 100% to the wheel, so you basically only feel the force until this 100% is reached..

Quote from S14 DRIFT :

I use 105% in the profiler, 200% in game and all the centering spring stuff off. Basically it's setup as shown in the "How to set up your G25" thing apart from the increased force feedback.

Are you joking? 200% in LFS and 105% in the profiler gives you binary force feedback. Depending on caster and setup, 20% in game FF can already max out the FFB in some cars in LFS. At 200% your FF has more clipping than a modern pop tune. :S

if one doesn't have to do 3D, there is no reason you can't get a simple card. Saves money and won't matter in performance, plus the extra wattage will be low and you wouldn't need a new psu at all. 22A = 264Watts, vs some 80 W for a 7900GTX ( http://www.xbitlabs.com/images ... /geforce7900gtx/power.gif ) Unless you have a silly quad core monster with lots of harddisks you should probably be fine.. plus there is unlikely to be a need for two GTX cards when one just does 2D.

Last edited by Niels Heusinkveld, Sun 11 Jan 2009, 10:57.

I had a look and indeed they use my base tire grip curves, but sadly they dropped the believable peak slipangles of ~4 degrees which Todd Wasson let slip (gee only re reading do i see the pun!), in favour of uber flexible tires that peak between 5 and 16.5 degrees, which is not possible. Longitudinal slip peaks between 8 and 17% which is also on the high side probably. Load sensitivity was also changed to something I cannot approve, and speed affects grip a bit more than I'd risk putting in but not as bad as most mods. Camber is odd, the front gets 15% more grip at -3 camber, the rear grows 15% grip in just -1 deg of camber.

I'd say the cars won't have too much of that 'overstep limit = spin' behaviour due to the 'better' grip curve, but the car will move around a fair bit due to the flexible peaks. This might look and feel fairly alright, especially considering the poor combined slip physics in rFactor. Probably somewhat like GTR2 did feel a bit like you could yaw somewhat, just not very realistically, and with less over the limit death.

The car also seems very low on downforce if the HDV comments are right, just some ~1100lbs at 150mph at max settings. No idea on the real values, but if it is half well designed, it could have double that..

Notepad ruined most realism out of the tires, but as long as people enjoy it, at least 'my' grip curves remained and might be partly the reason for driving enjoyment

I think I did give them a set of tires to try, but I'm not sure how much of it remains.

Let me put it differently.. A Scythe Ninja 'air' cooler beats nearly all the water cooling kits up to at least 5x the price. Less noise, less heat. Plus, this air cooler cools just about any processor you throw at it too.

If the radiator is about equal in size to a 120mm fan, you don't have to be an expert to conclude that any normal air cooler which has cooling fins of about the same dimensions is going to perform somewhat similarly.

When you have a radiator the size of say 360x120mm, then things can get going. The problem with most water cooling kits is they cramp a pump, fan, and radiator in little space..

Anyway, it is most likely still pointless to go watercooling. I have a Scythe Ninja with the original fan at just 5 volts!! running a E8400 (3ghz) overclocked to 4ghz. Only with a water cooling kit that costs more than the mobo + cpu + ram might you get the extra cooling to reach perhaps 4.4ghz.

Watercooling, been a while since these topics showed up. Time and time again, 95% of the watercooling kits:
- perform worse than good aircooling counterparts
- even though they make more noise and have fast running fans
- and cost a lot more.

Watercooling is still aircooling, but the water is used to transport the heat to a radiator. Since in 95% of the cases, these radiators aren't any larger than a good ''air cooler'', there is still limited cooling surface area, just as you have with cheap and small air coolers.

While there ARE watercooling sets that outperform aircooling in performance and equal it on noise, they typically cost as much as a simple new PC, whereas the aircooling sollutions that work really well only cost ~30 euro.

Watercooling is useless.

If you stop breathing, the problems will go away...

I tried the 1600 on slicks for a few laps and its been too long since 1.02 to compare it to that.. Its not bad, but not that impressive either imo..

Wow at first I thought how am I going to say the cockpit, especially those sidepots, are a bit off... But that wheel and the electronics work look well made and designed, so round 2 does go to you.

Hiyas

The holiday season, great eh! A small part is computer problem solving at the parents place.. My dad has a few mail accounts, one of which he can only receive mail with. He received a mail where the sender asked a 'confirmation mail' as we've all experienced.. However, on that account, he can't send any mail so it seems to try and send the mail every time he presses send/receive.

It is kinda annoying. It *seems* to be this unable to send confirmation mail causes the error.. But these mails aren't in the outbox so I can't seem to stop outlook trying to send this unsendable confirmation..

Arg!! any ideas?
Niels